Bathroom & Kitchen Electrical Rules in Scotland: Simple Checklist for Homeowners

Updated on Oct 2, 2025

Bathroom & Kitchen Electrical Rules in Scotland: Simple Checklist for Homeowners

Wet rooms and busy kitchens put extra stress on your electrics. The good news: if you follow a few clear rules—RCD protection, correct zones/IP ratings, and proper bonding—you’ll stay safe, compliant, and avoid the “gotchas” that show up on EICRs. This homeowner-friendly checklist explains what matters in Scotland (we work to BS 7671 across the UK), the common fails we find, and how to plan upgrades the right way.

Internal links for more detail and booking:

Domestic work we cover: Domestic Services
Testing & reports: EICR in East Kilbride

30-second essentials

RCD/RCBO protection: Bathroom and kitchen circuits that can supply sockets or outdoor equipment should be RCD-protected (≤30 mA). RCBOs per circuit reduce nuisance trips.
Bathroom zones: Fit equipment to the right zone (0/1/2) and use suitable IP ratings.
IP ratings near water: Sinks, showers, and splash areas need fittings with appropriate ingress protection (e.g., IPX4 in Zone 1/2).
Bonding: Ensure main protective bonding to gas/water is present and correctly sized. Supplementary bonding depends on the installation—your EICR will confirm.
Common fails: No RCDs, poor/absent bonding, wrong IP fittings, DIY fans/under-cabinet wiring, damaged accessories, borrowed neutrals, and messy extractor or downlight terminations.

If you’re unsure, book a quick safety check via our EICR page.

Bathrooms: zones, IP ratings, and what can go where

Bathrooms have defined zones because water + electricity = higher risk. Here’s the quick guide:

Zone 0 – Inside the bath or shower tray/basin itself.

Equipment must be SELV (12 V typical) and IPX7 (protected against immersion). Drivers/transformers go outside the zones.

Zone 1 – Above the bath or shower up to 2.25 m from the floor, and around fixed shower heads.

Use fittings at least IPX4 (IPX5 if water jets).
No switches or standard sockets here.
Fans in Zone 1 should be SELV with the transformer located outside the zones, or a suitably rated 230 V fan to the correct IP rating and RCD protection.

Zone 2 – The area 0.6 m horizontally beyond Zone 1 and up to 2.25 m high.

Again, IPX4 minimum. Mirror lights and shaver lights often live here—check the product’s rating.

Outside zones – Still a humid/splash-prone environment.

Use sensible IP-rated fittings and keep switches outside the room or use pull-cords.
Shaver sockets should be separated-isolating types and located in Zone 2 or outside zones per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Lighting tips in bathrooms

Fire-rated downlights where the ceiling requires a fire barrier.
Use sealed IP bezels over showers.
Keep drivers/transformers accessible for maintenance (not buried above insulation without ventilation).

Kitchens: no “zones,” but plenty of rules

Kitchens don’t have the same zone map as bathrooms, but they’re full of water, steam, heat, and high-load appliances. Practical rules:

RCD/RCBOs: All socket outlets and most final circuits should be RCD-protected (≤30 mA). RCBOs per circuit help ensure a tripping kettle doesn’t knock out the whole kitchen.
Appliance circuits: Electric ovens/hobs, microwaves in housings, dishwashers, washers, and tumble dryers may need dedicated circuits depending on load and manufacturer guidance.
Isolation & access: Provide sensible isolation for built-in appliances; avoid hiding fused spurs and switches behind fixed panels.
Sockets near sinks/hobs: Keep sockets at least 300 mm horizontally from the edge of a sink where possible, and avoid placing them directly above hobs.
Under-cabinet lighting: Use properly enclosed, SELV or double-insulated systems with tidy, accessible drivers—no taped joints or open terminal blocks.
Extractor fans & hoods: Terminate correctly (no connector blocks dangling in the void) and follow the hood manufacturer’s electrical requirements.

RCDs, RCBOs & why they matter

RCD (Residual Current Device): Cuts power quickly if earth leakage is detected—vital around water and outdoor circuits.
RCBO: Combines RCD + MCB for a single circuit, improving fault isolation (e.g., a fault on the bathroom light won’t drop the kitchen sockets).
Split-load boards vs RCBOs: Older split-load boards group many circuits under one RCD—one fault can black out half the house. RCBOs per circuit are the tidy, modern solution and often reduce nuisance tripping.

If your consumer unit lacks RCD coverage—or has frequent trips when the kettle and toaster run together—ask us about upgrades on our Domestic Services page or book an EICR to baseline safety.

IP ratings, decoded (quick chart)

IPX4 – Splash-proof (showers, bath areas: Zone 1/2).
IPX5 – Protected against water jets (useful for powerful showers/cleaning).
IP65 – Dust-tight and jet-proof (great for exposed fittings, also common outdoors).
IP67 – Temporary immersion (not typical indoors, but helpful for very wet areas).

Rule of thumb: In bathrooms, aim IPX4 or better within the zones; in kitchens, pick sealed, wipeable fittings near sinks and hobs and avoid open lamp holders.

Bonding: the quiet hero of safety

Main protective bonding connects your incoming gas and water services to the electrical earthing system. If this is missing or undersized, fault currents may not clear as intended—this is a common EICR fail and typically coded C2 (remedial required).

Supplementary bonding in bathrooms is sometimes not required if the installation meets certain conditions (RCDs present, correct main bonding, all circuits meet disconnection times, and no extraneous conductive parts). Your electrician will confirm during inspection—don’t add random links yourself.

Tell-tales you may spot

No visible green/yellow bonding clamps near the gas meter and water stopcock.
Old clamps/cables that look thin or corroded.
Labels missing.

If in doubt, we’ll test and size bonding correctly as part of a safety check.

Common EICR fails in bathrooms & kitchens

No RCD protection on socket circuits, shower circuits, or outdoor supplies fed from the kitchen.
Wrong IP fittings (e.g., standard downlights in shower zones, or rusty bathroom fixtures).
DIY lighting/fan wiring (loose blocks in voids, no strain relief, drivers cooked under insulation).
Damaged accessories (cracked plates, loose back boxes, overheated spurs).
Borrowed neutrals between lighting circuits (often revealed when adding extractor timers—leads to tripping).
Missing/undersized bonding to gas/water services.
Cooker/hob circuits with incorrect protection or undersized cabling after a kitchen refit.

These are usually fixable without drama. An EICR will list observations with codes C1/C2/C3/FI and we’ll map each to a clear plan and cost.

Planning a project? Do it in the right order

Safety baseline first: If your board is old or tripping, or you’re not sure about bonding, book an EICR to assess the installation.
Design fittings & controls: Choose IP-rated lights, sensible switching (e.g., 2-gang for mirror + spots), and timer-boost for bathroom fans.
Circuit design: Confirm loads and protective devices (RCBOs are ideal).
Install tidy & test: Certify the work and keep the paperwork in your home file.

Find out how we approach domestic work on our Domestic Services page.

Simple homeowner checklist (copy/paste)

□ RCD/RCBO protection on bathroom/kitchen sockets & lighting where required
□ Correct IP ratings (IPX4+ in bathroom zones; sealed/wipeable near sinks/hobs)
□ Main bonding to gas & water present and correctly sized
□ Fans & downlights wired correctly, drivers accessible, fire-rated where needed
□ Appliance isolation sensibly placed (ovens/hobs/extractors)
□ Sockets positioned safely from sinks/hobs; no cracked/damaged accessories
□ EICR in date (or booked)

FAQs

Do I need a special bathroom light?
Yes—use fittings rated for the zone they’re installed in (often IPX4 or better) and ensure RCD protection is in place.

Can I put a socket in a bathroom?
Standard sockets are not permitted within bathroom zones. Shaver sockets are allowed in Zone 2 or outside zones if to spec.

Is supplementary bonding always required in bathrooms?
Not always—if the installation meets the conditions (RCDs, correct main bonding, etc.), it may not be necessary. We’ll confirm at inspection.

My kitchen keeps tripping—what now?
It could be a faulty appliance, moisture, a borrowed neutral, or shared RCDs. Book an EICR and we’ll pinpoint the cause and advise fixes.

Book a safety check

If you’re planning a bathroom or kitchen refresh—or you’ve spotted any of the issues above—let’s baseline safety first. We’ll test, explain in plain English, and give you a tidy plan to bring everything up to standard.